The Great Comeback of Old Vegetable Varieties!

Many old vegetable varieties had long been forgotten. However, the organic boom and wellness wave have brought Swiss chard, parsnips, turnip greens, sugar beet, sorrel, and chicory back into the spotlight. It's safe to say that this is not just a short-lived trend, but rather, in light of food scandals and growing skepticism toward genetically modified foods, a return of consumers to tried-and-true, healthy, sustainable, and locally produced options. Both amateur and professional chefs appreciate pure flavors, earthy textures, and indulge in the new passion for traditional foods.

Swiss chard (Beta vulgaris ssp. vulgaris) is a biennial leafy vegetable that has been enjoyed by people in the Mediterranean for over 4,000 years. Its taste is similar to fresh spinach, and with many vitamins and minerals, Swiss chard is at least just as healthy. Swiss chard stimulates digestion, bile, kidney, and liver metabolism. There is a distinction between leaf or cut chard (e.g., the one prepared like spinach) and rib or stalk chard, where the stalks and ribs are prepared like asparagus. The yellow- and red-stemmed varieties (e.g., Buntstieligen) are particularly attractive in the garden.

Turnip greens (Brassica rapa var. rapifera subvar. pabularia), also known as "Stielmus," have deeply cut leaves and are harvested starting in May. Not only the leaves but also the tender, slightly sour leaf stalks are highly sought after in soups and as a vegetable side dish. The variety Namenia is highly recommended.

Most root vegetables are harvested in autumn, but the Mai-Rübe (Brassica rapa var. rapifera subvar. majalis) is a typical early summer treat. It is sown from May to August and harvested from May. The snow-white, round turnips are tender and mild in flavor when they reach a thickness of five to six centimeters. A classic autumn vegetable is the parsnip (Pastinaca sativa). After being consumed for thousands of years, potatoes and carrots displaced it from gardens and menus in the 18th century. Now, it’s making a comeback and enriches our cuisine with its sweet-bitter, earthy, and somewhat celery-like flavor. It is sown from April to May in open fields and harvested from October. Delicious in soups or as braised vegetables.

Very similar to the parsnip is the root parsley (Petroselinum crispum ssp. tuberosum), with varieties like Konika and Halblange; sowing should not be done too early, ideally from late April to early May in dried soil. A true treasure from the past is the beetroot (Beta vulgaris) *‘Ägyptische Plattrunde’*, which has been available commercially since 1868 and can be stored well into winter. No list of root vegetables would be complete without Teltower Rübchen (Brassica rapa f. teltowiensis), which even Goethe enjoyed.

Another gem from Grandma's vegetable box is black salsify (Scorzonera hispanica). Once labeled as the "asparagus of the common man," today the spicy, firm flesh of black salsify is appreciated as an independent delicacy, often used in the kitchens of top chefs. It is sown in April (or in autumn for the following year) in rows, with the seeds covered with soil to a depth twice the size of the seed. Gently press them down and keep the soil moist, especially in hot summers. Tip: Mulching keeps the soil fresh. A little patience is required, as black salsify has a long growing period but can remain in the soil until harvest in winter—or be stored in sand from November. It is prepared in the same way as asparagus.

Leeks, also known as porree (Allium porrum), are a delicious, aromatic autumn and winter vegetable. With their tall, upright leaves, they make a welcome visual addition to the kitchen garden. The tried and true old varieties *'Carentan'* (for autumn and winter harvest, available since 1873) and *'Elefant'* (autumn harvest, not winter-hardy, available since 1922) ensure an authentic taste. Also part of the leek family is the onion (Allium cepa), with varieties such as *'Zittauer Gelbe'* (available since 1875) and *'Stuttgarter Riese'* (available since 1890), both true traditional plants. A traditional variety from the cabbage family is *'Erfurter Zwerg'* cauliflower (Brassica oleracea var. botrytis), which has been available since 1830. It is one of the earliest varieties and stands out for its medium-sized, firm heads.

Lettuce as just a bland base for dressing? Forget about the dull, uniform lettuce – and instead try these delicious alternatives: *'Maikönig'* butterhead lettuce (Lactuca sativa var. capitata), *'Kasseler Strünkchen'* asparagus lettuce (Lactuca sativa var. angustana), *'Juwallon'* lamb's lettuce (Valerianella locusta), and *'Laibacher Eis'* iceberg lettuce. Endive (Cichorium intybus) is also a tasty alternative to the standard varieties.

Gourmet Tip: If you want to give your mixed salad a new kick, spice it up with blood sorrel (Rumex sanguineus) or dandelion (Taraxacum officinale)! In spring, wild garlic (Allium ursinum) adds a fresh twist to your salad bar.